In the late 1960s and mid 1970s Ferrari produced a mid-engined rear-drive sports car available with either a 2.4 liter 6 cylinder engine or a 3.0 liter 8 cylinder engine. At the time it was believed by Ferrari executives that the Ferrari name should only be reserved for models with a 12 cylinder engine, so the car was sold under the brand Dino, rather than Ferrari. While the car was lauded by the automotive press and was every bit a Ferrari with respect to its style, performance and handling (many of its parts came from other Ferrari models), since it was produced in relatively high numbers, lacked a "proper" 12 cylinder engine and was less expensive than a Ferrari, to the Ferrari
cognoscenti, it was the poor man's Ferrari.
Rolex, known for its high-end wrist watches, attempted a similar move when, in the early 1980s, it re-launched a former brand from its stable, Tudor. In the first several years of the brand's re-launch the watches sold under the Tudor name were almost identical to their Rolex cousins. Such was the case with the venerable Submariner. Rolex, which had been producing and selling the Submariner for many years decided to sell a Submariner under the Tudor name. Both Submariner's had the same bracelet, same case and a very similar dial. The main difference was that the Rolex Submariner used a Rolex movement while the Tudor Submariner used a cheaper but just as reliable ETA movement. This allowed Rolex to sell the Tudor Submariner at a discount to the Rolex Submariner. Even though both Submariners were accurate time keepers, to discriminating horologists using a movement other than a Rolex movement was sacrilege and thus, in such circles, the Tudor brand was known as the poor man's Rolex.
So begets Izaka-ya. While the beautiful people with Swiss banks accounts dine at Katsu-ya in Brentwood (see previous post "Katsu-ya: where excellent food meets beautiful people") the almost beautiful with bank accounts at Washington Mutual can go to Izaka-ya on 3rd Street, which is Beverly Hills adjacent. And instead of dining in the austere post-modern opulence which is Katsu-ya's decor, they can admire a mock telephone pole in the center of the of the restaurant (with wire strung across it), toy guns on one wall, an old time clock on another and a large center table with a rope coiled around it. Some may say it's like dining near a wharf, others a Japanese internment camp, but whatever it is, they won't confuse it with Phillipe Starck.
However, no matter the surroundings, there is no mistake as to Izaka-ya's lineage. Many items on the menu are straight from Katsu-ya such as the tuna and yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno, creamy rock shrimp tempura and crispy rice with spicy tuna. Izaka-ya also has a sushi bar like Katsu-ya. Sadly, there is no robata bar. Apparently such finery as robata cooked meat, seafood or vegetables is reserved only for the Marc Jacobs set, not the Marc by Marc Jacobs crowd. But, Izaka-ya also has many items not served at Katsu-ya like an Asari clam soup (not to be confused with the Asari Miso soup which is also at Katsu-ya) with whole clams boiled in a steamy garlic broth and oyster sunomono (when in season, which it wasn't when I was there).
The Service is similar to Katsu-ya, sometimes good, sometimes a little slow, and it can be just as crowded as Katsu-ya depending on when you show up. Also, don't be surpised to see a celebrity (Dylan McDermott was sitting next to me) as sometimes they like to slum it too.
For the Ferrari and Rolex set Izaka-ya may be a poor man's Katsu-ya, but for me, I'll gladly valet my Dino and flash my Tudor at Izaka-ya.
