I want my baby blues, baby blues, baby blues

Sorry for the Chili's reference, especially because Baby Blues BBQ is about as far away as you can get from sloppy, saucy chain-restaurant barbecue.

Located in Venice, Baby Blues is like the barbecue shack you imagine would be located off some dirt road in the rural South, perhaps near a swamp. This is a good thing, because I also imagine that such a place would serve authentic, lovingly prepared, delicious barbecue. Oh, and how Baby Blues does. I'm no barbecue expert, but their baby back ribs fall off the bone and they have a hot sauce labeled with masking tape called "porno," so that's good enough for me. My favorite dish so far has been the beef brisket sandwich, which comes topped with cabbage and is total shredded perfection when you squeeze their barbecue sauce over each bite.

However, what really makes me want to marry the place is their sides. The macaroni and cheese is just ever so slightly spicy, a perfect compliment for the lumpy-creamy consistency. Then there is the okra, which I think would win over the most "but it's slimy" okra wuss detractor. If you sit at the counter, you can watch the guys sauté the okra in a cast-iron pan, with whole cloves of garlic and tomatoes. Another advantage to sitting at the counter is the chef will ask you how everything is, advise you on the different meats, as well as recommend the banana "crack" pudding. I haven't tried this yet because each time I have stuffed myself too full for dessert, but he assured me that it's just as addictive as the mac and cheese. Aside from the counter, there are tables inside a narrow dining room decorated with really interesting art, and I believe it's byob since they have no liquor license. Even if you skip the booze, you will still leave drunk, on the food.

Baby Blues BBQ * 444 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, CA 90291 * 310-396-7675