Los Angeles is notorious for being a city of extremes. And one of the most interesting in my book is the difference between "new money" Angelinos and "old money" Angelinos. New moneyed Angelinos dump their CL500 as soon as the new CL550 comes out. Old moneyed Angelinos just keep driving their 500 SEC. New moneyed Angelinos buy a diamond studded Breitling Bentley. Old moneyed Angelinos wear the Patek they received from their parents. New moneyed Angelinos tear down in Manhattan Beach. Old moneyed Angelinos restore in Hancock Park. New moneyed Angelinos swill Cristal. Old moneyed Angelinos sip Chateau Margeaux. New moneyed Angelinos party with Ron Jeremy. Old moneyed Angelinos mingle with Francis Ford. Admittedly, most of Los Angeles seems to be teeming with new moneyed Angelinos (read the west side) and restaurants for new moneyed Angelinos to lavishly and ostentatiously spend their home equity line of credit. Luckily, there are still a few places where the fiscally secure, those that obtained it the old fashioned way (they earned it) may dine in relative obscurity. Taix, I am happy to say, is one of those places.
Taix has been serving French food to old moneyed Angelinos since 1927; a time when the forefathers of most of them were just striking out to make the family fortune. And it has been at its present location on Sunset Boulevard near Echo Park since 1962. Looking at the menu the prices appear to be from 1962. Most appetizers can be had for less than $10.00 and most entrées for no more than $20.00. Appetizers include escargot, calamari and French onion soup (which can be ordered with a salad for a whopping $10.95) and entrées include New York steak, chop sirloin, trout, short ribs, salmon and roast chicken. For the princely sum of $20.95 one can have a prix fix dinner, which includes a daily special such as "Filet Mignon Grille Béarnaise" (Monday), "Paella Mediterranean" (Friday) or "Canard A L'Orange" (Saturday) and soup, salad and sherbet. Also, besides the obligatory basket of bread, Taix provides a complementary plate of carrots and celery. That's value!
The blinged-out Prada loafer wearing yellow Lamborghini driving new moneyed Angelino seeking to dine in an environ of concrete, bamboo, soft woods and abstract art (see Katsuya) will be sorely disappointed when arriving at Taix. As with the pricing scheme, the decor is also from 1962. The walls are brick and arched in the entrance and the adjacent lounge is lined with rich mahogany panels (a la Ron Burgundy's office). Prominently displayed are black and white pictures of Taix over the years that generally feature celebrities and political figures who are long dead. How we miss you former Los Angeles Mayor Noris Poulson (1953-1961)! The main dining room has floral printed high-backed booths, pastoral paintings of the sublime and an embossed ceiling of the type seen in old buildings in New York (a city noted for its old money set).
Given the prices, the food is surprisingly good. I had the sautéed boneless trout while my dining companions had the duck and the braised short ribs. All were cooked in the traditional French style with plenty of butter and flavor. The service is equally compelling. Our waitress was prompt, efficient and cordial. One could expect no more from thier private banker or director of their family office. Thus, upon completion of our meal, we made a blood pact that we would return. Note that Taix is no Orotolan (which screams new money, it's on third street for God's sake), but it's no Melting Pot either (which leads to screaming, its on Colorado in Pasadena for God's sake).
For those Angelinos with old money or those with no money, I recommend dining at Taix. It will make you feel like a Rockefeller.
Taix. 1911 Sunset Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90026. www.taixfrench.com
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